On May 11th, 1946, it was decided to establish a lace making co-operative. The idea was not new. But, it was only after the World War II ended that lace makers could finally start to fulfil their great goal - to establish their lace making co-operative. So, in 1946, an allegoric carriage started into a May Day procession, from Peklo nad Zdobnici, occupied with bobbin lace making women and equipped with a slogan "We will Build a Lace Making Co-operative" The lace makers initiative was supported by the top political leaders. In the preparatory committee were included: M. Noskova and Mirko Trubka of the Centre of Folk and Artistic Production (Ustredi lidove a umelecke vyroby) in Prague, Karel Pulpan from the Institute of Improvement of Trade (Ustav zvelebeni zivnosti) of Hradec Kralove, Jiri Topic of the National Economic Council (Narodni hospodarsky sbor) Pardubice, Karel Zizka of the District National Committee Hlinsko, Ferdinand Svoboda of the District National Committee Rychnov nad Kneznou, Karel Zach representing the Organisation of the Domestic and Artistic Production (Organizace domaci a umelecke prace) Pardubice, Frantisek Cap of the Local National Committee Potstejn, Bedrich Traube of Local National Committee Skutec, Emanuel Koubek of the Economic Advisory Council of the Podorlice Region (Hospodarsky poradni sbor Podorlicka), Antonin Pokorny representing the embroidery area of the Vysoke Myto Region, Frantisek Blecha of Local National Committee Chrast u Chrudimi, and Anna Ledecova of the Advisory Board (Poradni sbor) at the District National Committee Rychnov n. Kn.
First meeting was held on February 26th, 1946. Its agenda included the establishing one co-operative for Bohemia and another one for Moravia. Next meeting of March 24th changed this intention so that there would be two co-operatives in Bohemia because the transfer of German citizens from Western and south-western Bohemia should be taken into consideration: one for the Western area, another for the Eastern one; the boundary should be the Moldau (Vltava) and Elbe (Labe) Rivers. The East Bohemian area would include lace makers living around the Vamberk region and embroidery makers of the surrounding of Hlinsko and Skutec.
In the Vamberk Region, three recruiting and informative meetings had been held, and about 100 lace makers became enthusiastic for this idea.
At the beginning, a significant financial assistance to the co-operative was provided mainly by the Ministry of Industry, the business centre of UVA (Artistic Production Studios, Umelecke vyrobni ateliery), Centre for the Folk and Artistic Production (Ustredi lidove a umelecke vyroby) in Prague, Institute for Improving the Trade (Ustav pro zvelebeni zivnosti) in Hradec Kralove, and the Consulting bodies of the District National Committee Pardubice and Rychnov nad Kneznou.
First, Chrudim, Pardubice and Hradec Kralove were suggested to become
the co-operative's seat. The idea was, however, abandoned because all these
places were too distant from the production centres, and thus it would be
difficult to handle them administratively. This is why Rychnov nad Kneznou
was decided to become the seat, under the condition that, in a year's time,
the experience will be evaluated and it will be decided if the seat will
remain there or will be relocated. Also the co-operative's name aroused
quite an interest. The slogan name was " East-Bohemian Co-operative
for Lace and Embroidery" (Vychodoceske druzstvo pro krajky a vysivky)
with the abbreviation of VKV. After 1957, the name has been changed into
"Vamberecka krajka, Vamberk" (Vamberk Lace, Folk Production Co-operative)
- with keeping the VKV abbreviation and its new meaning Vamberecka krajka
Vamberkì. The present name Vamberk Lace, Co-operative of Artistic
Production" (Vamberecka krajka, druzstvo umelecke vyroby, Vamberk)
has been used since 1965.
The constituent general meeting in the National House (Narodni dum) in Rychnov nad Kneznou was attended by many lace and embroidery makers. 174 members were elected. Mrs. Anna Ledecova was elected the head of the Board of directors and Marie Sterbova, a lace maker, the advisory board's president.
The beginnings were really difficult, the means available were poor. On the one side there was the weak co-operative, on the other side several financially strong wholesalers with branched contacts both inland and abroad. Even so, the coop was gradually gaining dominance and soon it acquired most of the lace makers.
The first kiosk of the co-operative was located at the Jansa at Comp. where the buy out from the domestic lace makers took place. The rooms were not suitable and all administrative works were done free-of-charge by the functionaries. Only after the ration card office was abolished, the co-operative was given better premises at the Arnost Slapl firm in Vamberk. Here, two paid employees made necessary administrative works already.
While the lace-making field started to develop promisingly, the embroidery making was declining. This is why it was found that both of these activities should not be administrated together, and the co-operative limited its activity to the lace making only. In 1947, at the 100th anniversary of the corvee abolishment, the co-operative was granted a development contribution of CZK 100,000, and a bearing-no-interest loan of CZK 300,000 from the Ministry of Agriculture. On August 14th, 1948, at the general meeting, it was decided that the co-operative's seat will be Vamberk forever. Only members of the lace-making field were elected to the new board of directors and the advisory board. Frantiska Ricarova was elected the head of the Board of Directors and Anna Ledecova the advisory board's President.
The co-operative moved into the Franisek Patek´s house in the Vamberk square and since then it has been involved exclusively in the production of hand made bobbin lace. From the balance sheets of individual years it follows that the co-operative was economically very profitable and that it exceeded and pushed away the private sector. In 1950, the co-operative again moved, this time to the house No. 7 in the square where, later on, the VKV shop was opened. With the introduction of the free market of the industrial good and foodstuffs, a dullness occurred in the lace sale
The population focused their interest on the products that used to be
subject of the ration card system, and now they were freely available. Also,
the contacts with the former foreign markets were interrupted. Despite the
persistent assistance of the co-operative bodies, the dullness intervened
hard to the co-operative's life. The co-operative had to exert oneself and
make different interventions to secure the production programme and thus
the employment for the co-operative's members. The co-operative acquired
the support of the USVD Praha that enforced reduction of the lace retail
prices and, before the co-operative became stable, the loss stemming from
the lace production was refunded to it. Gradually, a further improvement
in the lace makers salaries took place, according to the level of work sophistication
while retail prices remained intact.
In 1955 and 1956, the co-operative underwent another deep stagnation in the lace sale. Till now, it was producing the original kinds of products which were accumulating in the State wholesale. The then sober English fashion prevailed in the market and the lace collars and accessories ceased to be required. The co-operative did not have any substitute production programme so that there was no work for 200 lace makers. It was necessary to take various measures quickly - first of all to seek for a new application of the lace. This is why a competition was set forth. This action brought some new ideas, e.g. souvenir blankets and lace costume jewellery.
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Quickly, the production of garments with the lace applied was introduced and enhanced. At the beginning, the co-operative collaborated with sartorial co-operatives in Vamberk, Zamberk, Hradec Kralove and Nachod. In a short time, the production was improved and, through establishing its own development workshop, it now ranks in the top enterprises of garment production in the Republic. Soon it has confirmed that without its own development no marketing in the lace, garment and textile production is possible. Thanks to the development section, the level and art value of the products increased and, consequently, the co-operative ceased having problems with the sale.
The co-operative gradually developed and enhanced, and the production increased year after year. From the original several hundred thousand CZK of the yearly production in the first years after its establishing, the amount increased to several million in further years. In 1954, production of machine made bobbin lace curtains was introduced. The co-operative bought the objects No. 451 and 380 in the middle of the city, with a sufficient space for further enhancement and production. An old outhouse was converted into a modern single-floor operational building and the co-operative's centre was moved to No. 380. The surrounding area was planned for another construction of operational buildings. This construction was finished in 1968.
In 1963, the VKUS Vamberk co-operative was associated to the co-operative. Thus, the co-operative acquired another task - to secure all services for the public in the field of garment-to-measure. Volume of these services exceeded already CZK 1 million a year then.
At the beginning of the co-operative's activity, the members worked only in a family way, and their contact with the co-operative was limited to accepting orders and handing over the work only. Another development and enhancement of the production required new work organisation. The production was divided according to the assortment into individual independently managing centres. There were 9 such centres: in Vamberk, Kostelec nad Orlici, Potstejn and Destne v Orlickych horach.
At that time, the export of the lace started to vitalise. It was mainly the merit of tourism and the co-operative's participation in foreign trade fairs and exhibitions where the co-operative's products were evaluated as high-worth, mainly for its quality and art value. For example, the lace won 2nd prize at the international exhibition in Brugge, Belgium. Then, the co-operative reached its greatest success at the World Exhibition in 1958 in Brussels. Evidence of this is an honourable mention, Golden medal and a direct share in the Silver medal.
In 1959, the co-operative was granted a high State distinction "For Outstanding Work". The co-operative's products reached other distinctions at a number of exhibitions, e.g. in New York, Havana, Manchester, Casablanca, Helsinki, Berlin, Milan, Moscow, Vienna, Munich, Budapest etc. Also at inland Ýnational exhibitions, the co-operative's products acquired a number of distinctions. At the Liberec Exhibition Market, the co-operative won 4 gold medals and two honourable mentions, at the Ostrava Market it won the Golden burner and 3 honourable diplomas. At the World Exhibition inÝMontreal in 1967, the co-operative won the honourable mention and, in 1968, the President of the Republic granted the "Order of Labour" to it.
After a very difficult beginning, in the sixties, the co-operative became a consolidated unit where 420 members had a permanent work.
If we compare the level of our lace trade, at that time, with, e.g. the level in Slovakia, there is a great difference. Slovak lace trade has retained only remains of the art of old patterns and small varicoloured blankets. This is why we should positively evaluate the fact that is has been the Vamberk lace's merit of the permanent care of preserving this folk art but, above all, of its further development and application in the garment and housing culture. The lace art in the Vamberk Region did not swoon at the old patterns and forms, it succeeded in adapting to the world fashion, and it is able to implement even the most demanding designs. It succeeded in loosing from the traditional topics while respecting the aesthetic level. In that years, the top artists in this field started to collaborate with the co-operative. Besides Anna Kuncova, the constituent co-operative's member and a long-time designer, it is also Professor Emilie Palickova, Eva Fialova, Elena Holeczyova, Bozena Rothmayerova, Rudolf Richter, Vlasta Pivrncova , Bohumila Gruskovska, Ms. Knotkova, Ms. Puhona and others.
In the seventies and eighties, the co-operative underwent another development. A great investment construction of operational objects, a transforming station, a demonstration hall etc. were completed. Three new survey shops were opened (Usti nad Orlici, Zamberk, Hradec Kralove). The production programme was re-profiled. By turn of the seventies and eighties, the production of cotton coloured curtains was finished. The production concentrated into four main workshops located in the newly built object in Vamberk and in the branch workshop in Potstejn.
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No. 01 workshop secured the production of the hand made bobbin lace in the whole assortment. A great care was applied to the development of new patterns. Each quarter, the assortment was completely changed. An artistic committee was established at the Czech Union of Production Co-operatives (Cesky svaz vyrobnich druzstev) in Prague, composed of professional artists of the textile fields. All products where the hand made bobbin lace was utilised, including garments, had to be approved by the committee and only then inserted in the production. Goal of this measure was to keep high aesthetic level of products.
The co-operative's management applied a great care to creating its own strong development section. Further, it collaborated with external artists but the prevailing part of the collections was already made in the co-operative. Permanently, possibilities of usage of the hand made bobbin lace in new products was being found, the adjustment of the picture lace (mounting, wooden frames etc.) but, above all, the usage of the lace in garments, mainly in ladies´ evening dresses was utilised in a larger scale. Besides our artists, it was the merit of Mrs. Eva Fialova, a long-term employee of the Research Institute of the Production Co-operative System (Vyzkumny ustav vyrobniho druzstevnictvi) in Prague.
No. 02 workshop was involved in sewing the textile piece goods where the machine made bobbin lace was used for decorating the table cloths and table mats, small handkerchiefs, and lace shawls. In the seventies and at the beginning of the eighties, the "vlnacky", varicoloured woollen wraps on perambulators were still woven. The market was not so interested in them so their non-profitable production had to be cancelled and thus the weaving production was finally closed down.
No. 03 workshop in Potstejn secured the production of the chemlon house counterpanes. This was, more or less, a fashion affair and also this production was terminated at the end of the eighties.
That time, the decisive workshop for the economic development was No. 05 workshop - production of ladies ready-made dresses. A great emphasis was put above all on the usage of applications of picture motifs on the ladies evening garment. These products were supplied into all shops of the State and co-operative business. An integral part of the co-operative were also the workshops of the made-to-measure sewing both gentlemen and ladies garments (Vamberk, Kostelec nad Orlici, Rokytnice v Orl. horach, Zamberk).
In the seventies and eighties, the co-operative had more than 400 members, out of which 120 lace makers, mostly domestic workers. Remarkable was the relation towards the bobbin lace making and towards the necessity of keeping the traditional folk artistic production with these women, the majority of whom were constituent members of the co-operative. Many of them made bobbin lace till they were very old, and they stuck to this work even if they were far over 60. We have always esteemed their handicraft skill because this has become the base of all success that the co-operative has reached during the course of years.
That time, a great merit of the co-operative's management was their efforts to keep the traditional hand made bobbin lace also for the future generations, and thus much of the efforts and care were applied to the education of the young generation. At the beginning, young lace makers acquired their qualification in the biennial course organised by the branch of the Educational Institute of Artistic Production (Skolsky ustav umelecke vyroby) in Vamberk. However, this course's graduates were not given any skilled worker diploma.
This is why, in 1976, the apprentice field "hand bobbin lace maker" was established, at first three-years lasting, then three-and-a-half years lasting, after the apprentice school system was reorganised. Each school year, 18 to 20 girls were received. This apprentice field has been identified as a suitable one for apprentices with a changed working ability who would find their exercise in the working process only with difficulties. Since 1980, when the first graduates occurred, till 1992, more than 130 lace makers have become skilled labourers in this field.
Due to the fact that, each year, young workers kept coming to the co-operative,
and a number of lace makers ceased working because of old age, the ratio
between the number of domestic and workshop workers was changing. At the
end of the eighties, out of 110 lace makers, 2/3 were workshop workers between
20 and 30 years of age. Because to the apprentice field not only girls from
the Rychnov nad Kneznou district were received but also from the Usti nad
Orlici district, it was necessary to establish such workshops for their
future employment that would be suitable for commuters.
This is why a new object was built in Zamberk and a workshop in Usti nad Orlici was reconstructed. Both the education of the young lace makers and building the new workshops cost the co-operative quite a lot of money. However, it was the only way how to preserve this beautiful folk craft. A proof for this statement is also the fact that, in 1980, out of the total number of lace makers, 75% were pensioners, whilst in 1986 it was only 38% already.
At the end of the eighties, the co-operative had 450 members, and 95% of them were women. Economically it was absolutely independent and, each year, it made a considerable profit. The average age of the co-operative's management was 35 years. In that time, it was given many distinctions for its products, and a number of them were classified as "Perfect Co-operative Product". The co-operative participated in many exhibitions and trade fairs, both inland and abroad. It organised exhibitions and demonstrations of bobbin lace making in all Cultural Centres of the Ministry of Foreign Affairs, and presented its work in all countries of Europe and overseas. Everywhere, both the professionalism of the lace makers and the aesthetic level of the product were appreciated. A great care was applied to increasing the qualification. After having been given the skilled labourer diploma, the most talented lace makers studied at vocational artistic schools and, after their graduation, were inserted to development workshops. A number of them were granted the title "Master of Folk Artistic Production" that they had had to defend both with their own designs and with processing the products of hand made bobbin lace.
Present situation of the co-operative, same as with most clothing and
textile firms, is complicated. All of us realise that, provided we wish
to compete, we have to bring new and new quality products to the market.
For this, it is necessary to have high-qualified specialists. However, after
1989, many of them have left the co-operative. In 1993, the co-operative
got into serious economic problems and, consequently, it drastically limited
its production and dismissed part of its employees. Above all, the best
professionals, designers etc. left. Out of the original 450 members from
the period before 1989, only 120 remained in the co-operative. Despite all
problems we face now, the new management wants to keep the character of
the production also for future years - above all the tradition of the hand
made bobbin lace production. We return to the production and making patterns
of our own ready-made garment, above all the evening one where we can apply
the bobbin lace. We are seeking for a wider exercise of the machine made
lace which, till now, was used for making the table textile.
In the last two years, the situation has stabilised, the vacation of workers has stopped. We are aware of the fact that our task in the present technologically overdone world is to keep the tradition of the hand made bobbin lace also for the future generations.
